纽约时报文摘 | 跟着奥斯卡最佳外语片游罗马

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Paolo Sorrentino’s mesmerizing film “La Grande Bellezza” (“The Great Beauty”), which won an Oscar for best foreign-language film in 2014, sparked controversy and endless conversation about the current state of the Italian capital. But one fact was indisputable: Rome, as the film’s seductive backdrop, was gorgeous. This is true in every season, but especially in colder months when the summer flood of tourists ebbs. From outlying neighborhoods that beckon with new restaurants and bars, to the historic center, where Mr. Sorrentino’s protagonist, Jep, wandered through so many scenes, Rome remains poised to prove that its beauty runs deep.
保罗·索伦蒂诺(Paolo Sorrentino)迷人的影片《绝美之城》(The Great Beauty)获得了2014年奥斯卡最佳外语片奖。这部电影很有争议,引发了关于意大利首都现状的各种讨论。但有一个事实无可辩驳:美丽的罗马为影片提供了迷人的背景。一年四季,罗马都是如此动人,尤其是在较冷的月份,因为那时夏季的游客大军已经退去。历史悠久的市中心是《绝美之城》的主人公杰普热衷漫游之地;而偏远的郊区开了很多新餐馆和酒吧——不论是市区还是郊外,罗马仍泰然自若地展现着博大精深之美。

Bathing Beauty | 3 p.m.
出水芙蓉下午3

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One of the most poignant scenes in “La Grande Bellezza” transpires at the ruins of the Terme di Caracalla, colossal Roman baths that date from the third century. Jep’s twilight encounter with an illusory giraffe amid the spectacular ruins is memorable, but no tricks are needed to make this often-overlooked site unforgettable in the light of day either. The soaring walls of the complex, remarkably well-preserved in parts, are a terra-cotta-hued skeleton providing clues to the lost grandeur of this glorified gym, where amenities ranged from mosaic floors to thermal pools flanked by museum-worthy marble sculptures. Admission, 6 euros, or $6.70 at $1.11 to the euro.
《绝美之城》中最令人伤感的一幕发生在卡拉卡拉浴场(Terme di Caracalla)的废墟前——暮色中,在壮观的废墟前,杰普遇到幻想中的长颈鹿,那场面让人印象深刻。不过,在白天的阳光下,无需任何拍摄技巧,也能把这座经常被游人忽视的建筑拍好。这个庞大的罗马浴场的历史可以追溯到3世纪,某些部分仍保存得十分完好,高耸的墙壁如同赤陶色的骨架,能让我们想见这座辉煌场馆曾经的壮丽,它的设施十分完善,从镶嵌地板到热浴池,浴池两侧的大理石雕塑具有博物馆收藏价值。门票6欧元,按照1欧元兑换1.11美元的汇率计算,约合6.70美元。

Gallery Hunting | 5:30 p.m.
画廊猎奇下午5点半

Fast-forward nearly two millenniums for a glimpse of what constitutes art in contemporary Rome by visiting a cluster of galleries near Campo de’ Fiori. Start at Galleria Varsi, a two-year-old space dedicated to graffiti and street art that also organizes wall paintings across the city. Around the corner at Dorothy Circus Gallery, the blood-red walls showcase surrealist Pop Art. And nearby, a cobblestone courtyard and carved-stone fountain flank the entrance to the prestigious Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, which moved to this spacious location last year; until April 4, look for works by the emerging British artist Eddie Peake.
让我们快速转换到近两千年后,去参观鲜花广场(Campo de’ Fiori)附近的一群画廊,一窥当代罗马的艺术构成。从瓦尔西画廊(Galleria Varsi)开始,这个画廊已经开张两年,专注涂鸦和街头艺术,还在市内各处组织墙绘。转过街角就是多萝西马戏团画廊(Dorothy Circus Gallery),血红色的墙壁上展示着超现实主义波普艺术作品。附近还有著名的洛肯·奥尼尔画廊(Galleria Lorcan O’Neill),它去年才搬到这个宽敞的所在,入口的一侧是鹅卵石庭院,另一侧是雕石喷泉。从现在至4月4日,这里展示英国艺术新秀埃迪·皮克(Eddie Peake)的作品。

Centocelle Chow | 8 p.m.
琴托切莱区的美食晚上8

Rome’s traditional guanciale-laced pasta dishes — carbonara, amatriciana, gricia — are in no danger of extinction, but if more creative restaurants like Mazzo start opening, they might be. This tiny spot in the far-flung Centocelle neighborhood was opened in 2013 by a pair of talented young chefs intent on spinning Roman cuisine into delicious new territory. A highlight of a recent meal was rösti with Romanesco broccoli and pecorino, a dish overshadowed only by three succulent meatballs smothered in sweet caramelized onions. The snug space seats only about a dozen, between one rough-hewed communal table and a small counter, so reservations are essential. Dinner for two, about 60 euros.
烤面条加干酪沙司(carbonara)、茄汁腌肉意面(amatriciana)和杂货店风味面(gricia),这些意大利传统的腌猪脸肉面食目前没有灭绝的危险,但是如果出现更多马佐(Mazzo)这样的创意餐厅,它们就得当心了。马佐是一家小店,位于偏远的琴托切莱区,是两位才华横溢的年轻大厨于2013年开设的,他们决心开拓罗马美食的新疆域。前不久我在那里进晚餐,配有罗马花椰菜和佩科里诺干酪的土豆煎饼极为美味,不过甜焦糖洋葱焖肉丸多汁爽口,更胜一筹。这个舒适的餐馆中只有十几个座位,包括一个质朴的公用餐桌和一个小吧台,所以预订很重要。两人晚餐约需60欧元。

Pigneto Party | 11 p.m.
皮奈托区的派对晚上11

From Centocelle, the tram back toward the city center stops in the night-life neighborhood of Pigneto, so finish your night there. Beer-drinkers should head to Birra Più, a bottle shop and pub with craft beers from Brewfist and Birrificio Emiliano on tap. For something stronger, seek out Co. So. Cocktails & Social, a relatively new bar that pours creative concoctions like the Carbonara Sour, made with pork-fat-infused vodka, egg, black pepper, lemon juice and simple syrup. Or for music, swing by Yeah! Pigneto, an unpretentious cafe where local bands and D.J.s often perform amid the cool vintage décor on weekends.
从琴托切莱区搭电车回市中心途中会经过夜生活区皮奈托(Pigneto),可以在那里结束这一夜。啤酒爱好者应该去“更多啤酒”(Birra Più),它既是酒吧也卖酒,供应Brewfist酿酒厂和埃米利亚诺酿酒厂(Birrificio Emiliano)的精酿桶装啤酒。如果想喝更烈一点的酒,可以去Co. So. Cocktails & Social酒吧,它相对较新,供应创意鸡尾酒,比如“卡尔博纳拉酸酒”(Carbonara Sour),原料包括加有猪油的伏特加、鸡蛋、黑胡椒、柠檬汁和纯糖浆。想听音乐的话,就去朴素的Yeah! Pigneto咖啡馆,它有酷酷的复古装饰品,当地乐队和D.J.经常在周末来这里表演。

Market Choices | 10:30 a.m.
选对市场上午10点半

There were groans when the Mercato di Testaccio — one of the city’s oldest markets — was moved to a newly built complex in 2012, and for good reason: The bright, sanitized space feels more like an anonymous mall than a Roman market. For a more satisfying market experience, head to MercatoMonti, where about two dozen vendors — an upstart collective of young designers, artisans and vintage dealers — sell everything from felt fedoras and vintage sunglasses to striped sweaters and one-of-a-kind dresses made by local designers.
2012年,罗马最古老的市场之一泰斯塔乔市场(Mercato di Testaccio)搬到新建的综合建筑楼里,引发了不少怨言。这也难免:那个明亮干净的地方感觉更像普通的购物中心,而不是罗马的市场。要想获得更满意的市场体验,就去蒙蒂市场(MercatoMonti)吧,那里有二十多个摊铺,是年轻设计师、手工艺人和古董交易商的新聚集地,从毡帽、复古墨镜、条纹毛衣,到当地设计师制作的孤品连衣裙,各种货物应有尽有。

Prime Panini | 12:30 p.m.
最好吃的帕尼尼热三明治下午12点半

The labyrinthine lanes of Trastevere west of the Tiber River are lined with dubious dining options, but hidden among them is a refreshing new exception, the closet-size cafe Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina. Opened last May by four women — a mother, two daughters and a friend — this piccolissimo spot serves homemade dishes and outstanding panini using the region’s best ingredients. For lunch, try the Pane Alici, prepared with creamy stracciatella cheese, truffled anchovies and arugula on a black, seppia-ink bun made in-house (9 euros).
台伯河西岸特拉斯泰韦雷区错综复杂的小巷里有很多饭店,总体来说,让人不太放心,不过小巧的Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina咖啡馆是个清新的例外。去年5月,四个女人——一个母亲、两个女儿和一个朋友——开了这家迷你咖啡馆,它专门供应家常菜,以及用当地最佳食材制作的超棒帕尼尼热三明治(panini)。午餐可以尝试Pane Alici餐馆,那里有柔滑的鸡蛋干酪汤、块菌凤尾鱼以及顶上有芝麻菜的自制黑圆面包(9欧元)。

Macro Arts | 3 p.m.
巨大的艺术品下午3

The Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Roma, or Macro, housed in a former Peroni brewery, is often overshadowed by the city’s other contemporary art museum, the Maxxi — an impressive, modern structure designed by the architect Zaha Hadid. But don’t judge a museum by its facade. Macro presents more substantive exhibitions, from provocative portraiture photography to large-scale installations, like a multicolored crocheted work by the artist Toshiko Horiuchi MacAdam that served as an ersatz jungle gym for neighborhood children in 2014. The museum also expanded a few years ago with a spacious new wing. Admission, 13.50 euros.
罗马马克罗当代艺术博物馆(Macro)坐落在佩罗尼啤酒厂(Peroni)原址之上,它经常被该市的另一个当代艺术博物馆Maxxi盖过风头。Maxxi的场馆是建筑师扎哈·哈迪德(Zaha Hadid)设计的,现代感十足,令人难忘。不过不要光从外表评判博物馆。马克罗博物馆推出的重要展览更多,有颠覆性的肖像摄影,也有大型装置作品,比如艺术家堀内纪子的彩色编织作品,2014年这件作品被用做附近孩子的攀爬架。几年前该博物馆还扩建了一个宽敞的新侧翼。门票13.50欧元。

Sweet Stroll | 5 p.m.
甜蜜漫步下午5

A short walk from Macro are the milk-bottle-lined walls of Come il Latte, an adorable gelateria scooping some of the creamiest gelato in Rome. In contrast to many of the city’s top gelato shops, like Fatamorgana and Claudio Torcè’s Il Gelato, this artisanal gelateria, which opened in 2012, doesn’t serve scores of unusual flavors. Instead, the owner Nicoletta Chiacchiari uses top-notch ingredients to improve familiar favorites, resulting in caramel seasoned with pink Himalayan salt and pistachio studded with bright-green Sicilian nuts. After indulging in a cone, walk off some of the calories on a stroll north to Quartiere Coppedè, a curious quarter marked by beautiful Art Nouveau palazzi whose whimsical towers and ornate facades look plucked from a fairy tale.
从马克罗博物馆步行一小段,就可以来到迷人的Come il Latte冰激凌店,这里的墙上摆满牛奶瓶,供应罗马最柔滑的冰激凌球。这家手工冰激凌店2012年才开张,与该市的很多高档冰激凌店(比如Fatamorgana和Claudio Torcè’s Il Gelato)不同,它并不供应很多罕见口味。相反,店主妮科莱塔·基亚基亚里(Nicoletta Chiacchiari)采用一流原料,在常见口味基础上做改进,比如用粉色喜马拉雅岩盐给焦糖冰激凌调味,在开心果中点缀鲜绿色的西西里岛坚果。放纵地享用一个甜筒之后,可以向北走到科佩德街区(Quartiere Coppedè),把冰激凌的热量消耗掉一些。这个奇特的街区以美丽的新艺术派宫殿闻名,它们古怪的塔楼和华丽的正面像是来自童话世界。

Monteverde Meal | 8:30 p.m.
蒙特韦尔德区的晚餐晚上8点半

To get to the heart of modern Roman cuisine, get out of the heart of the city. On a quiet lane in the residential neighborhood of Monteverde, L’Osteria di Monteverde is a casual restaurant whose unremarkable exterior gives no hint of the outstanding food served inside. At a recent meal, beef tartare was a gustatory revelation after the addition of an eggy Parmigiano cream, porcini mushrooms and fried quail egg. Roasted octopus resting atop rosemary-scented borlotti beans got a boost from fresh stracciatella cheese. And spaghetti smothered with sheep’s cheese and baccalà was set aflame by a dollop of fiery ‘nduja (spicy Calabrian sausage). Dinner for two, about 60 euros.
要想了解现代罗马美食的精髓,需要离开市中心,来到蒙特韦尔德住宅区一条僻静的小巷。休闲餐馆蒙特韦尔德客栈(L’Osteria di Monteverde)其貌不扬,让人猜不到里面的食物竟如此美味。前不久我在那里用餐时点了鞑靼牛排,里面加有蛋味帕尔玛奶油、牛肝菌和煎鹌鹑蛋,简直是令人惊喜的味觉体验。烤章鱼放在迷迭香味粉色菜豆上,鲜软奶酪更是为之平添风味。用羊奶酪和鳕鱼干焖制的意大利细面条被一大团卡拉布里亚辣酱点燃。两人晚餐约需60欧元。

Twilight Tipples | 11 p.m.
黄昏的烈酒晚上11

For a nightcap, cross Monteverde to Vineria Litro, a relaxed wine bar that opened in late 2013. The mirrored bar is lined with rare mezcals, so try a cocktail like the Mezsconi, which modifies the classic Negroni by swapping out gin for the smoky spirit. Or take the tram back to the center, where squirreled away on a small piazza is No. Au, a laid-back cafe serving natural wines and craft beers. Pull a wooden stool up to the bar and order a glass of Sicilian red from Occhipinti or an IPA from Birra del Borgo.
穿过蒙特韦尔德区,来到令人放松的Vineria Litro葡萄酒吧,喝一杯睡前小酒。这个装满镜子的酒吧是2013年底开的,里面摆放着一排排罕见的麦斯卡尔酒(mezcal),所以你可以品尝一下麦斯卡尔鸡尾酒,它是对经典的内格罗尼酒(Negroni)的改造,用呛人的烈酒代替杜松子酒。或者乘电车返回市中心,去慵懒的No. Au咖啡馆,它藏在一个小广场的角落里,供应天然葡萄酒和精酿啤酒。拉个木凳到吧台,点一杯Occhipinti西西里红葡萄酒或Birra del Borgo印度浅色麦芽啤酒(IPA)。

Holy House | 10 a.m.
神圣的房子上午10

On Sunday mornings, masses gather at St. Peter’s Basilica to angle for a glimpse of the popular Pope Francis. But far fewer congregate at the second-largest basilica, San Paolo Fuori le Mura, making this sacred site ideal for unhurried contemplation. The nave’s soaring ceilings and gilded frescoes are impressive, but hidden beyond one transept is an even finer feature: the cloister (admission, 4 euros), a tranquil courtyard with beautiful mosaics, a trickling fountain and blooming roses for much of the year.
周日上午,人们聚集在圣彼得大教堂(St. Peter’s Basilica),期待一睹深受欢迎的教皇方济各(Pope Francis)的风采。不过聚在罗马第二大教堂圣保罗(San Paolo Fuori le Mura)的人要少得多,因此这个神圣的地方成了从容沉思的理想场所。教堂中殿高耸的天花板和镀金壁画令人震撼,不过藏在侧翼的修道院更是迷人(门票4欧元),安静的庭院中有漂亮的镶嵌地面、涓流喷泉以及四季常开的玫瑰花。

Power Couple | Noon
强悍的一对正午

For a lesson in adaptive reuse, walk north on the main drag of the industrial Ostiense neighborhood to Centrale Montemartini. There, a former thermoelectric power plant is now a museum housing ancient sculptures and artifacts from the Capitoline Museums. Most striking are the main exhibition spaces where milky-white marble sculptures stand in stark contrast to the hulking black equipment — engines, boiler and steam turbines that helped power the city in the past, repurposed as foils for art in the present. Admission, 7.50 euros.
沿着工业区奥斯提恩斯(Ostiense)的主道向北走,去了解改造性再利用的一个极佳例子——马尔蒂尼山中心(Centrale Montemartini)。这里从前是个热电厂,如今是个博物馆,收藏来自卡皮托里尼博物馆(Capitoline Museums)的古代雕塑和手工艺品。最惊人的是主展厅——奶白色大理石雕塑与庞大的黑色机械设备对立,形成鲜明的对比,比如发动机、锅炉和蒸汽轮机,这些设备曾用来给这座城市发电,如今用作艺术衬托。门票7.50欧元。

Pizza, Pizza | 2 p.m.
披萨,披萨下午2

No weekend in Rome would be complete without pizza. For the thin-crust Roman style, go to Emma, a chic pizzeria that opened in the historic center in 2014. The pizzas, so thin and light they’re nearly translucent, are made with dough from the celebrated baker Pierluigi Roscioli and with toppings from the family-owned Salumeria Roscioli nearby. For pizza al taglio (by the slice), go to Pizzarium, a take-away shop owned by the master pizzaiolo Gabriele Bonci that is scheduled to reopen March 8 after a much-needed expansion. Choices skew toward the unconventional, like roasted zucchini with ricotta, but they’re all delicious. Either meal will end as every Roman holiday should: with a full belly.
在罗马,没吃披萨的周末是不完整的。想吃罗马风格的薄壳披萨,就去时髦的艾玛披萨店(Emma),它是2014年在历史悠久的市中心开设的。那里的披萨又薄又亮,几乎是透明的。面团来自著名的Pierluigi Roscioli面包房,馅料来自附近家庭自营的Salumeria Roscioli熟食店。想吃按块卖的披萨,就去外卖披萨店Pizzarium,店主是披萨大师加布里埃尔·邦奇(Gabriele Bonci),该店经过急需的扩建后,计划于3月8日重新开业。这里的披萨不是很传统,比如乳清干酪烤西葫芦披萨,不过都很好吃。不管在哪家,你都会把肚子吃得圆滚滚的,所有的罗马假日都应该这样收尾。

In a 17th-century palazzo in the historic center, D. O. M (Via Giulia 131; domhotelroma.com; from 240 euros) is a luxurious hotel with 24 rooms and suites that opened in late 2013. The richly textured décor is an appealing mix of old and new — think artworks ranging from Renaissance-era marble inscriptions to Andy Warhol silk-screens — and the clubby rooftop terrace is a new hot spot for aperitivi in warmer months.
O. M酒店(朱莉娅街131号;domhotelroma.com;房价240欧元起位于历史悠久的市中心的一座17世纪宫殿里。这个奢华的酒店有24个房间和套间,2013底开业。这里质地丰富的装饰品是新与旧的迷人结合——从文艺复兴时代的大理石碑文到安迪·沃霍尔(Andy Warhol)的丝网印画——在温暖的季节里,仅对房客开放的屋顶露台是喝开胃酒的好地方。

Midcentury furniture mingles with marble sculptures at the J.K. Place Roma (Via di Monte d’Oro 30; jkroma.com; from 500 euros), a 30-room hotel that opened in 2013. The eye-catching design by the architect Michele Bönan features colorful palettes, stately four-poster beds and common spaces adorned with Berber rugs and a futuristic chandelier.
J.K. Place Roma酒店(Monte d’Oro大街30号;jkroma.com;500欧元起)2013年开业,有30个房间。这里融合了中世纪家具和大理石雕塑。建筑师米歇尔·博南(Michele Bönan)的抢眼设计包括多彩的色调、堂皇的四帷柱床,以及装饰着贝尔贝地毯(Berber)和未来主义枝形吊灯的公共空间。

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